Kioni
Kioni is one of Ithaca’s most charming villages, shaped in the 16th century as residents moved from inland settlements toward the sea. The first view is a small bay and a hillside of well-kept traditional homes, rising amphitheatrically into the surrounding woodland. Between May and October, the harbour is packed with sailboats alongside local fishing boats.
Coming from Vathy (24 km), you arrive at Rachi, the village’s highest point, with the quiet cove of Mavronas just to the left.
This area—where you can now visit a small church—was once the site of St Nicholas’s monastery in the 19th century. This area—where you can now visit a small church—was once the site of St Nicholas’s monastery in the 19th century. Inside the church, a few remarkably ancient columns have been preserved in the altar area.
Rachi also has a dramatic past: in the 17th century it witnessed a bloody battle, when locals fought off bands of marauding pirates.
Nearby, you can visit the Church of the Evangelistria, built toward the end of the 19th century and known for its interesting carved altar screen.
Vathi
Vathy is Ithaca’s capital and main harbour, a role it has held since the 16th century. The island’s largest settlement, it’s built amphitheatrically around a deep, sheltered bay with a narrow entrance and is home to about 2,000 residents.
The 1953 earthquakes caused widespread destruction, but much of the town’s Venetian-era character was rebuilt by locals. Today, Vathy is a protected traditional settlement, and a 1978 law requires new buildings to follow the island’s traditional architectural style and colours.
Among Vathy’s highlights are its elegant historic houses, the churches of Agios Georgios and the restored cathedral of the Presentation of the Virgin, admired for its impressive wood-carved iconostasis. The Archaeological Museum displays finds from the Geometric, Mycenaean, and Corinthian periods, and you can also visit the birthplace of Odysseas Androutsos, a hero of the Greek War of Independence.
As the island’s hub, Vathy offers schools, sports facilities, a medical centre, cultural venues, banks, fuel and repair services, and plenty of places to stay and eat along the waterfront.
Stavros
Stavros is the main village in northern Ithaca, with around 325 residents. It’s home to the area’s only elementary school, serving children from all the surrounding villages.
In the centre of Stavros you’ll find a small park with maps of “Homeric Ithaca” and a model of Odysseus’ palace. Right next to it is the village square, lined with taverns and restaurants.
For years, Stavros attracted archaeologists searching for clues to the Homeric city and the palace of Odysseus. What they did uncover was equally remarkable: a rare Early Helladic citadel—unique in the Ionian Islands—on the hill of Pilikaton.
Down at the port, a charming seaside spot, Loizos Cave was discovered. Important Mycenaean-period finds were unearthed here and are now displayed in the local museum’s archaeological collection. The region’s fishing fleet is also based in this harbour.
Stavros celebrates the Feast of the Saviour on 6 August. The impressive church on the main square is dedicated to the Transfiguration of the Saviour, and on 5–6 August locals and visitors gather for a traditional festival in the square.
Frikies
Frikes is a lovely coastal settlement on Ithaca’s east coast, about 19 km from Vathy, set at the head of a long, narrow bay.
The village developed after the 16th century, when residents from Exogi and Stavros began settling closer to the sea.
Today, around a hundred people live here year-round, though the population rises sharply in summer.
Frikes’ picturesque little port sits deep inside the bay, offering safe shelter for local fishing boats.
Whitewashed houses, built along the small valley, look down over the harbour. In the summer months, a ferry connects Frikes with the nearby islands of Kefalonia and Lefkada.
Along the waterfront you’ll find welcoming taverns and small shops, a modern hotel, and a mix of cafés and restaurants.
There’s also an outdoor nightclub that opens only in summer, with live music and a lively atmosphere that often lasts late into the night.
